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Question: What is crimping and full crimping in rock climbing? I am a beginning rock climber that is unfamiliar with the terminology. Please be specific in the description of hand position and its importance in crimping.
Crimping and full crimping are essential hand positions techniques used in rock climbing for handling small or narrow holds. They involve the following: 1. Crimping: This is a way of holding on to smaller holds that are too tiny to grip in a standard manner. In crimping, the tips of your fingers curl over the edge of the hold. The second joints of your fingers are mostly at a 90-degree angle to your palm, and your thumb is positioned either underneath the hold or just above it, not actively used. This is a very powerful position and can provide greater stability, but it can also put significant stress on the tendons of your fingers, so it's essential to use this grip sparingly and with caution. 2. Full crimping: Full crimping (or closed crimping) is a more aggressive variation of crimping. This grip has the same initial setup as the open crimp. However, in this position, you engage your thumb over your index or middle finger to create more leverage. The increased force through the thumb makes this grip stronger than a simple crimp, but it also places far more stress on your fingers, increasing the risk of injury. Importance of Crimping: Holds, and crimping holds, in particular, are essential skills in rock climbing as they allow access to otherwise unattainable routes. Learning how to crimp correctly can assist climbers in being able to utilize smaller and more difficult holds, allowing them to climb more challenging routes. However, it's important for beginners and even experienced climbers to use crimping and full crimping sparingly due to the intense pressure they put on the fingers and tendons. It's recommended to build up finger strength and conditioning over time to reduce the risk of injury, and prioritize using open-handed grips whenever possible. Remember, all climbing maneuvers require a balance of strength, flexibility, and technique.
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